Every foreigner dreams of coming to India and experiencing an Indian Palace. There are, of course, the palace-turned-museums such as in Jaipur (part of the Golden Triangle); the largest palace in the world in Jodhpur; the Udaipur Lake Palace; and Mysore Maharaja’s Palace.
Those are all places to visit one morning, spend a couple hours walking around, seeing historical objects like swords and turbans, a few books, and other paraphernilia you probably won’t remember past the hour.
And then, there is the Usha Kiran palace, in the Scindia Land of Gwalior. Run by the Taj Group of Hotels, this is a palace-turned-hotel you can luxe yourself in, for a morning, an evening, a night, a weekend, or a week.
The Taj at Gwalior is a place to stay when you want to experience what life would have been for a royal family 100 years ago. Built in 1880 during the British reign in India, it’s not that old, so the building has been maintained just as is. Designed by an Italian, it boasts of the smoothest of marble stone spiral staircases, crystal chandeliers, a saloon bar, and a Silver Saloon restaurant.
It’s not overwhelming; rather, it’s how the royal families wined and dined their visitors. Today, the royal family continues to live in the grounds next to this one, in the Jaivilas Palace, which is partially a historical museum. The Usha Kiran palace was built to host guests, including (in 1922), the Prince of Wales.
The Taj group has done a great job in maintaining the look and feel of the space for its guests who might not be royalty, but want to get a break from the reality of real life. Many guests I met were from Delhi, just a stone’s throw away. I myself traveled in an overnight 1AC train from Banaras.
I decided to let myself indulge in a luxurious, elegant long weekend, which happened to be over Easter. I worked with the hotel staff members in advance to assure my itinerary would match my needs and goals. I decided that while I was on my birthday vacation, I also wanted to steepe myself in the local hot-spots. While I couldn’t see everything in one go, I carefully selected to see places that were of interest to me and my research work on Yoginis.
Upon my arrival, I was greeted by the royal horse carriage, which took me from the gate to the front door, where the trumpet and drums resounded as I was entering. Later that day, I took a tour of the palace property, and learned a little about its history.
Photo Credit: Jittu, taxi driver @ Taj.
After a good night’s rest, my first stop was the famous Chausath Yogini Mandir in Mitavali.
The rest of my 5 days were spent in the palace grounds, enjoying the usual pool, jacuzzi, and steam room; the fitness center; courtyard cuisines that brought out the royal family’s heritages from Maharastra and Nepal; and Jugalbandhi jamming with the musicians on staff.
The property is not too big, but home to a lot of beautiful things. The straw that broke the camel’s back was the spa treatment I relaxed with one evening. The piece de resistance of this place, J Wellness Spa boasts of the royal family’s own recipes for special occasions via the Mangal Snaan. I wasn’t sold on it until I got there and they explained it to me. And then, I experienced bliss. At the end of my 3 hours of being exfoliated, scrubbed, wrapped, steamed, massaged, and finally bathed in a pool of rose petals, I felt softer than a baby’s bottom.
Another special treat was the live music: during Mangal Snaan, a musician sits in a private purdah-style room just off the main massage room, sending soft notes in sweet evening ragas like Bhoopali and Yaman (Mohanam and Kalyani). What an unique way to relax into slumber. Being a musician myself, I made specific requests for the flutist, who had already impressed me with his ability to play all ragas with the softness they deserve.
Since I had been singing alongside every evening, and guests and staff encouraged me to record some pieces while I was staying there. I spent time practicing with the musicians, and finally, the morning before I departed, we shot music videos: A varnam and some lullabies I composed myself; an impromptu bhajan at the 100-year old temple on the grounds; and even some children’s songs in English. The musicians were game for anything.
I also enjoyed some yoga and fitness sessions with the trainer, who was very understanding about my health needs (I’ve got a bum knee). As a yoga therapist myself, he offered his time to do some on-site photography in the lawns and gardens, as well as in the wellness center’s archways. Actually, many of the management and staff indulged my desire to take photography and record my moments of pleasure and joy while on the premises.
I happened to be at Usha Kiran Palace at the same time as a very high ranking international diplomat (and the diplomat’s entourage). Yet I felt as if the staff and the management looked after me as if I was a royal princess. People helped me find my way around for a few days; they carried my bags and opened my door; they would go to my room when I realized I forgot something (glasses, mobile phones). They paid special attention to my dietary requests, and even helped me when I felt sick (thanks to the heat of the week). The chef consistently met with me to make sure I enjoyed delicious food that fit my needs of every hour: from stevia-sweetened sabudhana and fruit kheer when I was celebrating, to ginger water and kadha when I felt sick, Thai vegetarian soups, and small meals, my lips were smacking and my stomach was satiated with simple, succulent meals whenever I needed.
From the front office girls and the management, to the gym trainer and the pool keepers, I felt a great connection with the staff of Scindia Palace.
So much so, that I will probably go back for more empowering pampering and female bonding, something I got to do with everyone from the GM, Tanika, to the waitresses at Silver Saloon who even came to me for advise on their lives, and ideas for reading. I’ve left them with a small book which I finished reading while I was there, and we all plan to develop a little book club to discuss our thoughts and feelings.
And then I left, with a feeling of love and care: hugs and selfies with so many of the sweetest, smartest women I’ve met. Plus, they sent me off with a keepsake: a Chanderi cotton-silk dupatta; and memories that will keep me yearning to come back.
See you soon, Scindias!
