A lot of people come to Kashi. They’ve been doing it for thousands of years. Mostly, they come for religious reasons.
I came to Kashi a little over two years ago—for my education.
Specifically, I came for a PhD program with the Malaviya Center for Peace Research. I expected classes and comrades. Here’s a great photo testament to that– my laissez-faire guide, Manoj Mishra, with his wife Anni ji, and my beautiful batchmate, Deep Shikha, at Manoj’s place for dinner.
Moreover, what I did get was a real education—in life. Here’s what I learned:
1. Karma Will Always Come Back to You
I came to Kashi after spending nearly eight months working diligently on my health. A diabetic, I brought my sugar levels down to a stable range before making the move.
But karma doesn’t forget.
Shortly after I arrived, I got conjunctivitis. That quickly turned into a reactive arthritis flare-up that would haunt me for the next few years. What I’ve learned is: no one can truly understand your pain. Your body, your path, your karma—only you walk it.
2. Find a Good Doctor (and Keep Them Close)
A good doctor is a blessing in Kashi. One who listens, pays attention, and doesn’t dismiss you with generic advice. A good doctor will investigate your symptoms deeply, take your words seriously, and evolve with your case. You don’t need a famous specialist—you need someone thoughtful, grounded, and present. After 9 months of dragging my feet from one doctor to another, I finally found someone who clicked. Dr. Ashutosh Upadhyay spent nearly 2 hours with me the first time I met him; I saw that he did the same for all his patients who came from all over northern India. He was patient, caring, and thoughtful. (I highly recommend him for orthopedic and rheumatological concerns. Check him out here on his official website: https://kogmed.com/)
3. Geography Matters—Learn It
Many of my friends wanted to visit “Banaras,” thinking it was like Rishikesh. No, my friends—Banaras is not Rishikesh. Banaras is Banaras.
Also called Kashi (the City of Light) or Varanasi (named after the Varuna and Assi rivers), this city is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world.
To my fellow Indians: please take a geography and history refresher. Hang a physical map in your home. Yes, an actual printed map. Every time you travel or read about a place, look it up. Google Maps is helpful, but context needs perspective—something only a full map on your wall can offer.
4. Rishikesh ≠ Kashi
Rishikesh is at the Himalayan foothills. It’s green, scenic, and filled with yoga centers and cafes. It became popular in part due to Swami Sivananda and, later, the Beatles.
Kashi, on the other hand, sits deep in the plains. It’s dry. Dusty. Visibly ancient. There’s no picturesque mountain landscape. And the Ganga here isn’t tranquil—it’s powerful, polluted, and sacred in a more fierce, unfiltered way.
Note that Kashi is not in the Himalayan Mountain range.
5. Kashi is Where You Come to Burn Your Karmas
Banaras is where people come at the end of life—or after death. Ashes are immersed here. Final rites are performed. It’s not just a holy city; it’s a karmic transformer. A release point. A place of transcendence.
6. Live Simply
The city doesn’t cater to luxury. Many modern “amenities” are simply unavailable. It’s a place that teaches you to do without. You adjust. You downsize. You let go. Simplicity isn’t a punishment here—it’s a passage.
7. Build Relationships, Not Itineraries
Forget the bucket list. The power of Kashi lies in presence. I made friends with people who taught me about the real power of Kashi, and made me realize why I was there. Make time for conversations. That’s where the magic is.
8. Don’t Look for Cleanliness—Look for Clarity
Kashi isn’t “clean” in the Western sense. There’s dust, noise, and decay. But if you can look past the grime, what you’ll find is clarity—of thought, of devotion, of truth. It’s not sanitized, but it is sacred.
9. Let the City Teach You in Silence
You don’t need an itinerary in Banaras. Wander the gullies. Sit at a ghat for hours. Watch life pass. Watch death, too. This is a city that teaches through silence, observation, and presence.
10. Stay for a Sunrise
If you do only one “tourist” thing, let it be watching the sunrise over the Ganga from Assi Ghat. Go early. Sit quietly. Let the pink sky unfold. That moment alone can show you why generations have sought solace here.
Whether you come for study, pilgrimage, art, or to just breathe in its ancient energy—Kashi will leave a mark. Not always gently. Not always kindly. Always profoundly.
Let it teach you. And when you leave, leave a lighter version of yourself behind—with the river, with the flame, with the sky.
