Sometimes the first–or last– impression we have of any place is the one that sticks. As Kashi tourism grows, its airport becomes of increasing importance. Having lived in Banaras for over a year, and visited 3 times in the year before, I’ve been in and out of its airport enough times (2 dozen or so) to give a fairly accurate picture of the place.
Before you come to Kashi, know about your transportation in and out of the city. Kashi’s (which is actually Varanasi, VNS; Kashi is also a place in China, so don’t get confused) airport, Lal Bahudar Shaastri Airport, is located out 25 kilometers away from the city in Babatpur. Many people who have visited are surprised—and I’m shocked at that! We cannot expect an important pilgrimage place with footfall of over 2 lakhs a day, and where a million is just a drop in the great Mother Ganges, to house an airport in its gullies or ghats. The traffic in Kashi is unique (pedestrians, cycle rickshaws, bicyclists, e-rickshaws, auto-rickshaws, cars, taxis, some buses, not to mention the animal traffic of cows, goats, monkeys), and the airport should be set away from its ancient architectural gems.
The only way to get to and from airport is via taxi and it can range from 1-2 hours depending on where you’re staying. Cost is around ₹500-1000, more in the peak seasons and days.
Now let’s talk about the airport itself.
- Connectivity: Varanasi hosts flights from major metros of India, including Bangalore, Chennai, Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai, and Pune. Since the inaugural Kashi-Tamil Sangamam in December 2022, and smaller scale events highlighting regional connections, it would make it easier if flights from every state of India were available. Varanasi also deserves to be truly international, welcoming visitors from important regional and global hubs like Kathmandu, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, London, Frankfurt, Dubai, and Doha.
- Size: It’s small. For the above to happen, the airport needs to grow in its capacity. Right now, 3 functional gates from upstairs have airways leading from gate to plane. One (the so-called international one) doesn’t seem to be functional. Downstairs has 2 gates, which require airbus shuttles to take passengers to the aircraft less that 150 meters away. gate 1 is hidden from plain sight; and no one knows why. Gate 2 has been bifurcated into an and b, though it is unclear why. For the amount of interest of domestic and international tourists, 6 gates doesn’t seem to be enough. There’s also just the one runway, as per a basic google search and the assistance of Wikipedia. Which means even one delay can cause everything to get backed up. This is an issue especially in winter season when weather conditions include high levels of fog. Sometimes flights are also cancelled. (Let’s not be too quick to judge and wonder why these things aren’t changing and developing the way we think is appropriate. It takes time for land to be acquired, zoned, and capacity to be researched and then implemented.) Don’t be perturbed. Instead, just enjoy more time in Kashi—for no matter how much time you are here, there’s always more to see. And do. And experience. And explore. And just be. In the presence of the great Mother Ganga.
- Parking and entrance: simple, easy, effective. Not a lot, and easy to navigate the parking and entrance. One of India’s first airports to install Digiyatra, there is a separate easy to identify entrance. And because it’s small, there’s little to no line while entering. Even if you don’t have Digiyatra, you’ll be indoors in a matter of minutes. Security is friendly and supportive. They understand you’ve experienced everything Kashi has to offer.
- Check-in: always fast and friendly. I’ve mostly used indigo’s girl power, and, in keeping with my style, I feel women handle the floor with grace and power. I see the same happening with other airline companies and their lines. I’ve never seen overly frustrated passengers. (I will discuss more about Indigo’s girl power in another blog post, as this is not so relevant to the airport’s functionality and beauty itself.)
- Security check: while the machines are old and outdated, the CISF staff is organized and able to give clear instructions for a smooth check. I’ve even met one security lady who could handle 4 tasks at once— verily a Durga Ma in her own right! Still, I feel airport authorities can upgrade the systems so that we don’t have to empty all our electronics and even our belts and jackets. It’s winter, we are cold!!
6. The lounge: for-fee lounges are in plenty of Indian airports now. These are places to relax and unwind while waiting for flights. Varanasi doesn’t have one and after any time at all in Kashi, it’s a much-needed addition to help us relax. If the airport expands, lounges with food options, massage chairs, and other relaxing amenities, would be greatly appreciated. Currently, basic black seats with metal chairs serve as the only space to sit, and often, there are not enough seats for all passengers. I have spent more than one hour at a time, wandering about with my luggage. We have already experienced Kashi; now give us something classy!
7. Shopping and food: until recently, one restaurant serving continental bar-ish cuisine existed on the ground floor. A few months ago, new shops popped up. Cafés with highly overpriced Nescafé shots. A small restaurant with pre-made Indian cuisine (such as rice and dal, dosas and chutney). And some candy shops. There are also a few overpriced souvenirs if you forgot to by gifts for someone. Quality isn’t great, but it can make do in a last minute situation. I’d suggest bringing your own food. I usually do.
8. Lifts and stairs: only one escalator going up; the down one hasn’t worked as far as I’ve seen for nearly 2 years. And it’s misplaced at some corner of the airport near the non-functioning gate 6. I suppose that is only befitting: a non-functioning gate with a non-functioning escalator. There’s one small lift, which is hardly enough to handle hordes of tourists with tough time walking. Somehow, the airport manages but there’s immense room for growth.
9. Bathrooms: Well, if you’re following my blog, you know that toilets are important to me! I believe that toilets can really create a world of a difference for women (and therefore men, a subsect of wo-men), as they allow one to cleanse the bowels and release the bladder, thus avoiding disease. Banaras airport’s bathrooms are clean, tidy, and come with a lady waiting to support you with making the faucets work, handing you tissues, etc. During your wait, you can rest easy.
10. The name: Likewise, if you know anything about me, you know that I’m all for women, women, and women. Airports should be equally named after people of all genders, including women. (Fairports is a group focused on creating equality in airport names. Currently, less than 5% of the world’s airports are named after women. That’s about 16 total, of which 2 are in India: Indira Gandhi International Airport serves as the flagship airport of India in its national capital; and Indore pays homage to Maharani Ahalya Bai Holkar. Mother Teresa, who was in essence, Indian, and an iconic figure in the nation, has an airport named after her, but it’s not in India.) While I respect former Prime Minister late Lal Bahudar Shastri, and I believe he deserves the respect of not only an airport, but many other buildings named after him, I also feel that every airport can be named after a woman of great importance, or a community of women. Banaras is home to one of the greatest women of all time, Maa Ganga, the woman who agreed to fall from her place in the heavens in order to uplift all humankind from their sins. Could we perhaps consider naming the airport (or train station) after she who gives life to all (especially considering nearly 5-6% of the world’s population, and 33% of India’s, relies on her for water, and therefore food?)
11. Aesthetics: other airports like Bangalore’s new terminal may have had fancy designer elements to make it look foreign. But Banaras is its own world (perhaps sitting on Shiva’s Trishul) and if you see nothing else of Kashi, see this: artist Suresh K Nair’s depiction of Lingas emitting their own light through mixed medium mural art. It’s worth seeking out this piece-de-resistance in the airport (along with the artwork on the grounds which depict elements of the entire region), inputting your image into the mirror, and merging yourself with Kashi’s great Lord one last time.
Post note: I wrote this on a flight from Banaras to Coimbatore via Bangalore. At the Bangalore airport for a nearly 3 hour layover, I was required to go through domestic transfers. Still using digiyatra, I found the line slow. When it was my turn, the scanner seemed to work but they still wanted my Identity card. On principle, I refused. Digiyatra has been created with the purpose of eliminating the need for Identity cards. While I of course carry my DL, Aadhar, and PAN cards on me, I refused to show them, because the Digit locker serves this purposes.
CISF told me it’s a technical issue. Airport authorities told me it’s CISF decision. I asked for written proof on a government website that transfer locations require ID proof. No one was able to give me.
Other passengers passing by agreed with me but I was the sole person who (always) refused to show any ID card. I said I’m willing to miss my flight but I’m not willing to compromise my principles and the purpose of digiyatra for any reason. I cannot be complacent and just accept words of authority figures. I want written instructions from legitimate sources.
Otherwise, how can I honor the father of this nation?